With this table saw tapering jig you can cut tapers or true one edge of a bowed board. The 36 inches length and 8 inches width for the base is what I used for cutting legs for a project but any length or width of base can be made to fit the job. Extra clamp strips should be added to longer bases for cutting straight edges.
Thin strips should be cut on a table saw with the wide board against the fence and the fence moved in for each cut, however it is difficult to accurately adjust the fence for each strip to be the same thickness. The workshop jig helps with that.
Use this simple table saw guide to align your cut mark and get an exact cut everytime.
Plywood projects always look better with the edges covered by thin strips of solid wood banding. But what is the best way to cut thin strips consistent on the table saw? This is one table saw jig that I found that can do the task.
Here are plans for the compound miter sled that I use for making 12-sided 50-degree compound-mitered segmented rings.
The instructions are for a miter sled that fits into the left mitre slot of the table saw and is for a blade that tilts to the right AWAY from the sled. If your saw has a left tilt arbor, reverse all the directions and drawings mentally to build a sled that fits into the right mitre slot. Easiest way to look at this to build the sled so that blade tilts away from sled. Shall we begin?
Aluminum throat plate for the Delta Unisaw. Has machined dovetailed opening for zero clearance wooden inserts. 1 inch opening accomodates Freud Super Dado. Print out drawing and take to a machinist. DXF Format
This tablesaw jig is unusual in that it is pretty easy for any woodworker to make, it allows you to drill two rows of pin holes with one setup, it does not cost very much money and finally – it is FAST!
I use a shop-made splitter that is built into my throat opening insert. It also has the advantage of being a zero-clearance insert, narrow pieces can not fall down between the blade and the opening in the insert. Here is how I made mine.